Rhinog Tranquillity

Rhinog Fawr (Optional) 124-657290 SH 720m 2362ft

Rhinog Fach 124-665270 SH 712m 2336ft

Y Llethr 124-661258 SH 756m 2480ft

Diffwys 124-661234 SH 750m 2461ft

Crib-y-rhiw 124-664248 SH 670m 2198ft

The Rhinog mountains provide some of the most spectacular and toughest terrain throughout England and Wales. Most of the northern part of this ridge that guards the centre of Wales from the worst that the Irish Sea can throw at it is covered in thigh sapping knee high heather and ankle breaking boulders, thus making every breach of its defences a satisfying challenge to those that dare enter its domain. Running adjacent to the Cambrain coast means a weather pattern that can change from bright sunshine to torrential rain and dense cloud in a matter of minutes.

Thus said the area is one of natural beauty and spectacular scenery. This is my fortress of solitude and my sea of tranquillity. A place to escape the trauma of modern life and return to the natural delights of nature.
The shattered slabs of rock that make this spectacular mountain ridge, run north from the beautiful Mawddach estuary and its impressive Barmouth Viaduct, to the pretty Vale of Ffestiniog and the gateway to the northern mountains of Snowdonia.

The Eastern side of the ridge protected from the western storms, is home to a wonderful unspoilt environment of bog and native moorland fringed by the Coed-y-Brenin forest. The northern end of the valley plays host to the vast expanse of Llyn Trawsfynyedd, guarded by the huge cold grey concrete towers housing the now redundant but deadly radioactive reactors of this old PowerStation. A sad legacy that remains to remind us the price we paid to have cheap electricity in the 50s and 60s. However the waters of this huge manmade lake are now home to millions of trout and provide the necessary water to feed a hydro electrical plant further down in the vale of Ffestiniog valley.
On the western side of the ridge the mountains give way to the coastal plain along the Cambrian coast. The golden sands and pretty seaside towns are only separated from the hills by the delightful Cambrian railway line, a joy to travel on at any time of the year.

At the southern end of the coast is Barmouth a popular destination to many holiday makers. At the northern end stand the majestic cold stone grey towers of Harlech castle, playing sentinel on a huge crag of rock jutting out above the Harlech dunes. In the thirteenth century the sea one reached to the very base of the crag providing the castle a way to be supplied by the sea. This is the scene of the famous tune Men of Harlech celebrating the defence of the castle under siege from an attacking army.
The mountain walk will take the follower into the very heart of these hills, conquering its highest peak and allowing them to wear its proudest jewels. It is a full day circular walk that will cover moorland walking as well as high ridge walking. It is imperative that the follower has a good basic knowledge of map reading and compass use, as well as being reasonably able bodied.

In order to arrive at the start of this walk, turn off the A496 at the junction adjacent to the Victoria hotel in Llanbedre. Head inland for approximately a mile or so and turn left towards Cwm Nantcol. Follow this road until it terminates at a small farm called Maes Garnedd. Here there is a small car park that cost a couple of pounds to park your car.
Once kitted up return along the road for approximately one mile. This will be the last time you walk on even ground for the next several hours, so make the most of it. After about a mile you will see a well sign posted track on the left heading past the eastern slopes of Moelfre. Follow the track in a southerly direction until you reach the brow of the rise. Here if the weather is clear you will see in the distance a stone arched ancient bridge approximately a mile or so to the south. The bridge crosses the Afon Ysgethin and it is your next point of call. If the weather is poor then take a bearing with the compass off the map for the bridge and follow the bearing as the track is often impossible to follow over this terrain.

On reaching the bridge turn east following the old ancient track up the stepped slopes ascending the western side of the main Rhiniog ridge. The track will lead you in a south direction behind Llyn Erddyn. At the apex of the track turn North East following the old dry stone wall along the top of the ridge. This will lead you to Diffwys the first of the main peaks. The ridge will follow a hind leg of a dog course turning north. It will also sharpen offering great views both across the Coed-y-Brenin forest and the Cambrian coast. After two or three miles good ridge walking and a good steep climb up the grassy slopes of Y Llethr you will have arrived at the ridges highest point. However it is only now that the two real jewels of this ridge will lay bare their crowning beauty. The nearest is Rhinog Fach with its shattered western cliffs plunging into the dark mysterious black waters of Llyn Hywel. If there was ever a contender for a lake to play host to King Arthur's Lady of the Lake then this lake would be a true contender. Surrounded and protected on both side by the mountains that guard this precious jewel it is a place of serenity and tranquillity, one of the few places that I have ever encountered perfect silence, while sitting quietly on it shore watching a lonely gull glide effortlessly across its crystal black perfectly calm waters.

If you are lucky you may catch sight of one of the only herds of wild mountain goats in the country as they feed and play on the wild slopes of the Rhinog mountains.

The other jewel in the ridge Rhiniog Fawr lies across the natural ancient pass Bwlch Drws Ardudwy, one of the few breaches in the wall of rock protecting the southern regions of Snowdonia from the westerly approaches. Rhinog Fawr stands like a proud majestic Queen serene and arrogant to the fact that Y Llethr actually is King of the ridge.
On leaving the lofty top of Y Llethr head north down a shale track to the southern tip of Llyn Hywel, keep to the eastern side of the lake following the dry stone wall across the small strip of land at the eastern side of the lake.

The path will then go follow the wall up the shattered southern side of Rhiniog Fach scrabbling over huge boulders to gain the summit which gives princely 360 degree views all around. For the less energetic and able you can bypass the scrabble by taking a track east of the wall that gives a more gentle approach to the summit.
Here we now have a choice. Either walk north to the end of the ridge and descend on the steep track on the east side of the mountain to the pass of Bwlch Drws Ardudwy, or descend on the path leading of the western side of the mountain back towards Llyn Hywell and the north again to Bwlch Drws Ardudwy.

On reaching the pass the choice is yours. You can either head west along the pass back to the car or you can climb the gully on the southern edge of Rhinog Fawr to add the final jewel to your crown.
Now depending on how you descended Rhiniog Fach you will need to find the start of the gully. If you descended on the Eastern side turn left along Bwlch Drws Ardudwy and the gully will be on your right at the head of a small marshy area. If you descended on the western side turn east along Bwlch Drws Ardudwy and the marshy area will be on your left. On reaching the base of the gully locate the faint track on the right hand side and follow it, scrambling at time until the top is reached. The summit will be a couple of hundred feet to the northwest, marked by a trig point.

Now the choice is simple, to return to your car you can either take a faint track west until it joins a path heading south that takes you back to your car. Or you can retrace your steps back down the gully to the Bwlch Drws Ardudwy pass and head west. The latter being the shorter route. Do not be tempted to take a short cut unless you are very experienced and fit as the heather and boulders that defend Rhinog Fawr are at the best it this area.
On reaching the car, de-kit and return along the road to Llanbdre, perhaps stopping off at the Victoria hotel for a well earned refresher.

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